Pandemic Blues in the Heart of Babylon

by Ọlájídé Sàláwù

Everyone always hoped that January should end. I myself strongly felt it should. The Ides of January are its long tentacles, the sprawl of days, the cheesy Harmattan wind, the dry pocket after the Christmas shopping spree, the lurch for lights after the previous brackish year, and the hope for a new clearer sky. If one looked at it closely in the grand scheme of things, one would always find a reason to want January to end. My savings, for example, were already going down the drain and I was expecting that new stipend would come in soon so as to restock foods before I resumed teaching fully. But, it seemed each day was always getting stretched and there were invisible decimals of hours that kept kneading the month longer than July or August or every other month that has the same almanac of days.

While one felt that January should end because of its potential dryness at least after vacation loss of December, it set one into the New Year race. After all, in Pentecostal Nigeria and the litany of other orthodox churches from where I came to America on Fulbright scholarship, so many wars and battles are fought on “the crossover night.” At the turn of every year, the seers come with their prophecies: some gloom and others bloom. Once upon a time, a Nigerian President had this great vision for the country’s success tagged Vision 2020 for a new Nigeria. He would be fascinated to learn that the country is the same hell-hole he left behind. 

The hankerings over 2020 have been in the loop for long. Like all Januaries, this year’s was filled with so many excitement for me. I would be interacting with my students in person for the first time. The bulk of my work in the previous semester was more of workshops within the University environment and in neighbouring colleges. And I had a thought: This semester, I have got much to get ready for you. Back in Janus-faced Babylon, things were the same and everyone cared less about the organisms incubating in Wuhan, China, and the President had even shooed it off as the flu.

Sàláwu, with friends.

I spent my last winter holiday under the frosty arms of Winnipeg, Canada which was colder than Fayetteville considering it is northernmost in terms of closeness to the Pole. I returned when the month had just broken in the middle and the teaching schedule would commence albeit reluctantly in the following week I arrived. Ten students had already enrolled for the class by the end of Fall. That was in November. On my arrival to Fayetteville, my body still failed to adjust to the weather. Although I had never witnessed a snowy Fayetteville, Winnipeg on the other hand was often white-laced and the heavens were always on the low temp.

I continued to put on my thermal wear to absorb the frigid wind that came with the morning, vamoosed in the afternoon sometimes, and returned arrow-faced in the night. I also threw on my black overall jacket to keep my body safe after the cream-colored thermal underlay. Sometimes, I got layered like onions with more clothes after the thermal dress to wrest myself from the bristling wind of Cumberland where Fayetteville is located. Fayetteville is not always like that.

In the last week of January, classes began proper and the first two classes I had with my students were tellingly diverse. Five of my students were African Americans, the others have by chance of migration of grandparents became citizens of Babylon. The senior professor, a Nigerian-American, who I was co-teaching the class with was also from Ògbómọ̀shọ́, Nigeria, and was part of the brain drain wave of the ‘90s when he embarked on a doctoral program at the University of Florida. His rich knowledge of the culture even after decades of exiting Nigeria amazed me. Well, even if everybody is leaving Nigeria’s hell, there is so much that people hold on tightly to. It is the culture. It is the language. The food! And then, this is a course he has been handling for years.

We had a fair outline in the syllabus to work with that did not only emphasize the communication aspect of Yorùbá language, but also the culture. I would be handling the cultural aspects while the professor would handle the language part, at least for the first few weeks of the semester. Our classes would be held in two different buildings on campus. The Monday and Wednesday classes would hold in one of the rooms at Science Taylor Building while the Friday classes held at Butler Building. The first Monday class was getting the students a Yorùbá identity. So I suggested that the students should check Yoruba Name portal where they could find the name of their choice and also acquaint themselves with the meaning. The following class, they came back with interesting names such as Ayọkù, Jádesími, and Ọrẹolúwa.

That was the first part of the introductory class. We have also instructed them that searching for the names on the website is not compulsory and they could look at circumstances surrounding their births to decide the names they would like to bear during the class. On the first week of February, they all returned with a paragraph on the story surrounding their names. Tatyana had picked the name ‘Odáyàtọ̀’. She claimed she is a unique child in her family. After this introductory week, the class was settled on a slow cruise. In America, the students are kings with a hunch of debt breathing behind their backs. You have to appeal to them how attending classes and seminars related to the course would earn them credits. So I had to re-learn my tolerance in new way and then send the classroom culture which I had imbibed back Nigeria packing.

At the beginning of February, the story of an ultra-modern hospital built in ten days in Wuhan jarred the world into a bit of consciousness.  Most of the media began to place the news of the virus in their headlines. There was a gush of conspiracy theories also flowing from all sides of the world.

At this time, there hadn’t been any announcement in the University on the imminent gloom. As the countries around the world started closing their borders and economy started shutting down, people waltzed bare-nosed into Walmart in Fayetteville. The atmosphere on campus was taken by the faint gossip on the virus but students still loiter around Ecoground Café where I did relaxed with the smell of Starbucks coffee wafting into my nose. As expected, I myself was getting thrilled as my students were beginning to master the Yorùbá greetings, especially the ‘Kú’ greeting. The most enthusiastic among them, Cevyn, was fond of asking me Báwo ni before following that up with Ẹ káàsán o since the classes often held in the afternoon.

Then one day, the University Clinic sent for Yan, the Chinese lady who was also a Foreign Language Teaching Assistant. She was in the office with me when she got the notice that she had to report at the University Clinic for a routine medical check. In December during Fall break, Yan had travelled to Harbin in China to spend her holiday. Although the population of the infected persons in China then was a few thousands and Harbin where Yan had come from was not a hotspot for the spread of the virus, such travel was considered high risk and the University demanded she report herself that morning. During the break, I was away in Canada and there was little or no impact of the pandemic around December and the first two weeks of January when I was there. Whereas Houcien, the Moroccan FLTA who was teaching Arabic, turned her sight towards Grand Canyon and later spent few days in Los Angeles. 

For the semester I was auditing two courses. So ordinarily my weekdays were filled up. In this shuttling, I moved to attend Dr. Murray’s African-American Literature classes and Dr. Bir’s editing and proofreading classes. But since these two were audited courses and not meant for credit, I often leaned on that fact and played truancy while giving more attention to my primary duty. Of course, we had a great plan ahead of us. There was the Global Awareness Day which I had to prepare the students for, and we were already considering scrapping Wednesday’s class for the rehearsal of the songs the students would sing. Besides, I was scheduling a social evening events. One would be for watching Yorùbá film, say Ṣawaoro-Idẹ and the other to listen to Yorùbá songs. There we would also have some local Yorùbá snacks such as ọ̀jọ̀jọ̀! I handled our second class of the last week of February and introduced the students to musical instruments in traditional Yorùbá society. It was their first time they would see the talking drum.

The momentum the virus gained at the beginning of March meant things would go awry sooner or later. Nobody knew where the wave of the virus would move to, but North Carolina had caught a bit of the sneeze via a patient at Wake County. News of class transition had started to breeze in. I carried on with my preparation for the Global Awareness Day, teaching the students the common Yorùbá songs, “Fún Àlááfíà” and “Isẹ́ Àgbẹ̀”. Their pace of learning the songs awed me, and by the second week of March when we had our rehearsal, I added “Eleketo” as the third song. Though the last song was a bit difficult for them as they were yet to grapple with the tonal glides in-between the stanzas. The other aspect of the class had fared well as well. We have moved on from greeting. They can now all read the Yorùbá Alphabet and thankfully memorize some good, fine social gestures.

Things quickly went down south as March approached its end. The University announced that all classes should proceed online and office hours of instructors would take place at an upswing. It was unsurprising considering that the United States declared that all international borders would close. The campus was shut down, save for the faculty should they have some office work to round off before complete closure. So puff went the Global Awareness Day and social evening events which already got the students. I already thought our classes would move to Zoom or Blackboard as other universities were now using these platforms. Few friends at other Universities, who also came from Nigeria on the Fulbright program, were already scheduling synchronous methods. Professor Àjàní told me that I would be completing the other side of my teaching duty by interacting with students on Canvass while he would shoot videos for the rest of the topics on the syllabus at the University’s digital lab. 

On the first week of April, the University Place Apartment came in. We were meant to vacate the residence as all students were issued instruction until the end of March to leave. Drey and Mark, the two black American students, who I and Houcien shared the apartment with moved out as well. Gracefully, an extension was secured for all the FLTAs, for two weeks, by our administrative supervisor, Dr Sharmila. When it was a week before the extension deadline, I asked her what the plan for our last accommodation would be and she replied we might likely to be moved to a hotel, Extended Stay.

On the first Wednesday of April, we received final notification from the Hall Life Management that we have until 12th of April to leave. April had visibly held Spring in sight. The Carolina originals were already shooting out their beauty. The sight of the azaleas and Japanese Maple Tree was alluring.  But what also sprang forth was gory news around the world about the virus devastating the landscape. I wrote to my supervisor about the Extended Stay Hotel. She quipped I should not worry, the University would be moving us into an emergency hall on campus called Renaissance.

And so, the story began. April was the cruelest month.

Ọlájídé Sàláwù was, until recently, the Fulbright FLTA at Fayetteville State University, North Carolina. He is the author of Preface for Leaving Homeland published under the African Poetry Book Fund Box Set (Sita) in 2019. 

Bloomsday in Lagos

For the first time, Bloomsday is happening in Lagos.

This is the celebration of James Joyce’s work, which happens annually around the world on June 16, the day that his seminal novel Ulysses takes place in 1904.

This year’s event is hosted by the Irish Embassy in Lagos. It will be online.

The event will feature a conversation between Dr. Adrian Paterson and Kọ́lá Túbọ̀sún, and moderated by Àdùkẹ́ Gomez, focusing on the theme of isolation and the links between the work of Joyce and that of Nigerian Nobel Laureate Wọlé Ṣóyínká.

Source: Irish Embassy Twitter.

“I Can’t Breathe” | New Poem by Níyì Ọ̀ṣúndáre

      (Episodic Variations on the Ripples of a Primal Scream)

            I

I can’t breathe

   I can’t breathe

     I can’t bre

       I can’t

         I can’t

I. . . .

            *

2020: Black Lives Matter

1965: I AM A MAN

            *

There are countless ways

Of lynching without a rope

            *

The casualties were fewer than we ever expected:

     10 Persons

         &

     1,000 Negroes

            *

For every Black in college

There are a hundred more in prison

             *

So many centuries on,

America still has a “Negro Problem”

             *

My skin is my sin,

Sings Bluesman with the wailing strings,

My very life is an “underlying condition”

For countless afflictions

            *

And the Media Sage responds:

Racism is America’s Original Sin

Violence, its inalienable companion

             *

There is a common crime in town:

Breathing While Black (BWB)   

            *

Mr. George Floyd committed two cardinal crimes:

He was Black

He was big

            *

Black Lives Matter

Black Life Martyrs

            *

Asked Louis Armstrong, the Smiling Trumpetman:

What did I do to be so black and blue?

                  II

Black Life Martyrs,

Their voices rise from their untimely graves:

Amadu Diallo, Eric Garner, Michael Brown, Tamir Rice, Walter Scott, Freddie Gray,  Botham Jean, Breanna Taylor, Philando Castille, Trayvon Martin, Ahmaud  Arbery,  George Floyd. . . . .

Any Hall of Fame

For Trophies from Police hunts?

            *

To be and not to be

To wallow in want in a sea of wealth

To shout and not be heard

To stand and not be seen

To sow and never to reap

To live all your life below the Law

To be stopped and frisked stopped and frisked stopped and frisked stopped and. . . . . 

To be told countless times

To forgive and then forget

            *

Yess Sur, Yes Maa’m. . . . 

Put them at ease with your Negro smile

Your low, low, bow and your high regard

That cool façade is your saving grace

The “Angry Black Man” is as good as dead

            * 

911, 911,  911, 911

My name is Sue, 

Calling from my car in City Park

There’s a big black male around

Whose big dark shadow is menace to my sight 

Please send a cop; my life is at risk

              *

Choke-hold, choke-hold

Stranglehold and dash and dangle

400 years of knee-on-neck

              *

Our Police know their oath:

To serve

   &

To protect

            *

The Police Chief took a knee

The Sheriff followed in tow 

Is this a genuine genuflection 

To Kaepernick’s treason

Or patronizing bribe of momentary appeasement?

            *

And the Emperor snarls 

From the bunker of his White Castle

Vowing “vicious dogs and ominous weapons”

Rolling in guns to “dominate the streets” 

His unhappy nation now his “battlespace”

             *

Black Lives Matter

Black Life Martyrs

             *

Asked Louis Armstrong, the smiling Trumpetman:

What did I do to be so black and blue?

               *

I can’t breathe

   I can’t breathe

    I can’t bre. . . . .

I. . . . 

     

______

Niyi  Osundare is a prolific Nigerian poet, dramatist and literary critic. A champion of free speech, his art and criticism is associated with activism. His work is taught in Nigerian schools and recipient to many Nigerian and International prizes. He sends this from New Orleans. June 7, 2020.  

Jos in January: Cold and Comfort

by Chinenye Mgbojikwe and Chijioke Chris Chuwa

Jos is a small town in Plateau State, in the middle of Nigeria, at approximately 1200 metres above sea level, making it one of the highest points in the country. It was originally occupied by the Nok people in the early Iron Age, but has now been populated by people from all around Nigeria. The cold environment was particularly attractive to the Fulani because it was an uninhabitable place for the tsetse fly which caused sleeping sickness in their cattle.

The famous rock formation near Riyom in Plateau State

I’ve lived in jos all my life and as such, I’ve grown accustomed to the weather in this beautiful city. Right from time I was introduced to custom of wearing multiple layers of clothing paired with socks no matter the type of footwear I donned on my feet. 

One of my most notable experiences with the Jos cold came from my time in secondary school — I attended Baptist High School, Jos, a boarding school. We took our baths, when we could, with cold water, because who was going to gift you hot water as a JSS1 student? The harmattan period which usually came around November – January was a true test of grit.

One day, my roommate and I had secured a bucket of water at night to avoid the long queues to get water in the morning. We had been worried that the water would have been stolen by other students. The next morning, we soon found out why it was left untouched, our water had ice in it! Not large ice blocks as you may think but thin sheets of ice on it! We had to dry clean ourselves — an act where you only wash your hands, legs and face — before heading off to class.

 We later learned from our more experienced seniors that to prevent your water from getting colder at night you need to use a towel or thick piece of cloth and cover the top of your bucket leaving no gaps. As time passed and it got colder we eventually avoided morning baths and opted to have our baths after classes mid-afternoon. The school also noticed how the cold was increasing and made it a rule for each student to wear a sweater at all times. 

As time went by, the students also found ways to keep warm such as creating fires to boil water using hot coals gotten from the kitchen and any available metal bucket in the vicinity. This wasn’t as effective as it may sound because it was limited, not everyone in school could boil water, just a few people who hustled to get to those hot coals early enough. 

Around 2011, the PTA decided to build heater rooms to provide hot water for the students so we could cope with the weather. Things are much easier these days as I’m told, more measures have been put in place to combat the cold.

Jos weather is often said to be bi-polar, because of the way it randomly changes. You could be shivering by 7 am and sweating by 3 pm.  Yet despite all these, the city is still the preferred location for most people, especially those who grew up here. The people of Jos are so accustomed to the cold it’s sometimes uncomfortable to live elsewhere. Some residents even joke that the cold weather prepares them for various trips outside the country.

Why is it so cold?

The city experiences low temperatures because it lies on a slope. Jos is approximately 1200m above sea level and at heights such as that the weather gets colder and the air thinner. 

On the 3rd of January, it recorded a low temperature of 6.7ºC. This was the lowest recorded throughout the harmattan period. For contrast, London on the same day recorded a temperature of 9ºC. The high altitude of Jos makes it susceptible to jet streams which are fast-moving air propagated by the northeast trade winds. Due to the sun, the air around warms up in the afternoon period but drops once it’s evening and the sun has set. 

What are the effects of being in a region this cold?

Unlike places abroad that deal with cold weather on a more frequent basis, Jos does not have the resources to keep its residents warm. There is a lack of room heaters in offices, eateries, and homes. 

This causes people to limit their sources of ventilation. You turn off your air conditioner, turn off your fan and maybe close some windows to stop all that cold breeze from coming through. This raises some health concerns.

Boys gathered around a fire to keep warm

The harmattan and dust combine to propagate different types of viruses that may cause illnesses such as pneumonia. Due to the cold weather, people tend to congregate and stay in groups, this alone makes it easier to pass along germs and bacteria from one person to the next.

According to a health service provider at the Jos University Teaching Hospital, Ifechukwu Ezeonugo, this period brings an influx of patients who bear symptoms of a common cold, the majority being children and the elderly.

How do the residents cope with the cold?

A resident of Jos all covered up because of the cold

The people of Jos cope in many different ways, I for one carry around a flask of hot water or tea wherever I’m going, to drink and keep me warm. I Always wear socks and if possible gloves when I’m going out to run errands. The cold affects different people in different ways. I decided to get a few stories from people working in Jos to get their perspective. 

The Keke drivers

Keke drivers in jos have a curfew of 9 pm, after which they aren’t permitted to work till the next morning due to security measures.

Usman, 30, says since the cold began business has been a bit tougher for him. “I no de too see customers like that again, nobody wan de comot for this kain cold may breeze de blow them on top,” he says. He has had to change his routes a couple of times to get more customers. He doesn’t like to come out as early as he used to because sometimes the cold can be unbearable in the early hours of the morning so he waits for time to pass and hits the road by 7 am then he closes by 8:30 pm so he has some time to get back to his family. The cold affects his work because he can’t increase his rates due to the cold alone, seeing as the fuel price and distances remain constant. He has had to cope with the cold as best he can.

The office workers

I strolled into a popular bank (they wish their name to be kept off the record) to ask how they were faring with the weather and the woman at the bank teller said it’s tough. They don’t use their air conditioners or fans anymore and it’s hard to get to work each morning. You see fewer public transportation so she has to wait outside more than she does on a normal day because of the cold.

Something else that bothered her was the body odour some customers had, “You can tell some of them skipped having their showers this morning, but I understand that due to the cold it is unpleasant to shower so early in the morning,’’ she said. The cold hasn’t affected the flow of business in the bank, things just go as they always do.

The bike men

Bikes aren’t too popular in Jos, they have been restricted for some years from the main roads, so they operate in inner settlements of the city. I walked around for some time until I found a bike man who was willing to talk to me. Mr Dung says he doesn’t come out to work till 8am, because the cold is so severe in the mornings. He also does not have his bath till mid-afternoon when the sun is out and its a bit warmer. 

He dares not forget his sweater, head warmer, gloves, and socks. It’s suicide to leave even one. He said that because he operates within a small settlement, people have no choice but to make use of his services. If not, they would have to brave the cold and make the long trek to the junction where they can get a cab to their desired destination. 

The maishai (tea makers)

There are a few maishai around Jos. You can spot them carrying large trays on their head containing flasks of hot water and nylon filled with loaves of bread. 
I walked around till I could spot one. And although he was busy, he obliged me and answered the few questions I had for him. He said the cold is nothing new to him, he expects it. He has lived his whole life in Jos and has only been to a few other northern states.

To cope, he takes his bath early and always with very hot water and comes out as early as he can. Business is booming for him this period, he says. Everyone who goes about their business outside such as drivers, hawkers, and even pedestrians can get cold and need a hot drink to keep warm. He says business is so good that he has to go home and refill every few times.

For him, the Jos cold is a blessing.

The traders

I walked into this shop because, at first sight, it just felt like a warm place to be in at the moment. After feeding my eyes I walked over to talk to the owner of the shop find out how the cold was treating him and his business. 

He entertained me briefly because he had customers to attend to. The period was the best for him, he said, because he had to get more wares ahead of time so he’ll have enough blankets and sweaters to sell to his customers. He has no shortage of customers. Most of his clients are mothers buying extra blankets and sweaters for their wards going back to school in this harsh weather, he says. 

He’s covered head to toe in warm clothing, moving back and forth and responding to the needs of his various customers. He is one of the benefactors of the cold that comes around this period. 

Here are some common myths about the Jos cold

  1. It snows. Sorry to disappoint you but it hasn’t snowed in Jos and the likelihood of it ever happening is low due to its geographical location.
  2. It rains ice. Technically it doesn’t rain ice, but Jos has been known to experience hailstones during the rainy season and not the harmattan.
  3. Pipes bring out ice water. While this is a possibility, in the past few years there has been no documentation of such happening in the state, a few videos have gone round saying otherwise but those are videos taken from other locations.

How to survive in the Jos cold

  1. Never leave home without a sweater. You might come out in the afternoon and the weather feels a bit warm and you say to yourself I can do without a sweater, my dear brother/sister this is a bad idea. Remember what I said about Jos weather being bipolar? In a split second the weather can change and you’re left in cold chattering your teeth and rubbing your palms together to create warmth.
  2. Avoid dust at all costs. Dust inhaled can cause loads of health problems for you including asthma and pneumonia. You can get a surgical mask to prevent inhaling dust or use your handkerchief as a makeshift cover if you can’t find one.
  3. Get extra clothing. Additional clothing such as gloves, scarves, head warmers, and socks are incredibly helpful.
  4. Avoid cold water and fluids. The weather is already cold no need to make your body feel it anymore, use hot water to bath and only consume drinks at room temperature or warmer if possible.

When all that’s said and done, Jos is an interesting place to visit during the harmattan period. You get to experience the feel of a different region entirely and see firsthand how people cope with the weather. 

____

Chijioke Chris Chuwa is a chemical engineer who loves to write. He is based in Nigeria and writes articles, short stories and poems. He is also a content creator and digital marketer.
Chinenye Mgbojikwe is nutritionist and a student at the University of Ìbàdàn, where she is currently doing her masters in Public health. She is a model who has worked with several brands. During her free time, she indulges her love for books by editing.

Photos by Jacob Dakshak and KTravula.com

The Ransome Kuti Museum in Abẹ́òkuta

Sometime in April of last year (2019), I visited the site of the Kuti Heritage Museum in Abẹ́òkuta. Located on NEPA Road, Isábọ̀ Abẹ́òkuta, the house was the famous home of the Reverend I.O. Ransome-Kútì and Mrs. Fúnmiláyọ̀ Ransome-Kútì, and the likely birthplace of Fẹlá and some of his brothers.

This restoration project has been ongoing for a while. The home of the famous Kútì couple had, over the years, become victim to negligence and decay. Photos exhibited at the venue, showing the transformation of the structure from its earlier state of rot shows it as sometimes being a site for refuse dumping by neighbours and passers-by.

But it was not always this way. Copious paragraphs from Wọlé Ṣóyínká’s autobiography Aké were dedicated to memories of times spent in this place to visit his uncle who was by then the headmaster of Abẹ́òkuta Grammar School, and his wife whose organising of women to protest the misrule of the Aláké led to the Abẹ́òkuta Women’s Tax Riots and the eventual abdication of the king in early 1940s.

Over time, the successful careers of many of the house’s famous former occupants notwithstanding, the home had gradually settled into oblivion. But the Ògùn State Government, in collaboration with members of the family, returned a few years ago to restore the building to its rightful place in the Nigerian consciousness as bearers of history. From what I gathered, the building adjoining the original home is the museum, set up to inform visitors about the family, its famous members, and their role in Nigerian and world history. I could not enter this building itself on this day.

But I did enter the main home, restored to its old stone form, and girded on each corner downstairs with metal beams. Word is that the project was supervised by Theo Lawson, the same architect behind the Freedom Park and the Kalakuta Museum in Ìkẹjà. Being nothing more than a casual observer of art and documentation myself, I was impressed by the presentation.

All the rooms in the old building have retained their sense of time. The furniture reflect those of the 40s, and the upper-class aesthetic that the Kútìs must have enjoyed among the society. The bathroom had a bathtub — what would seem like a sign of opulence in that part of Abẹ́òkuta and that time period. The plumbing of the house was modern, even though the house was made of mud and stones. This restoration has added a few more things to the aesthetic: air conditioning — which should tell us something else about the changing climate.

The veiw of the Museum from across the street.

From the balcony, one could see a good view of the town itself, and one can imagine the Reverend himself, on a cool day, standing there, toothpick or pákò in mouth, staring out or greeting a passerby.

The view from the Reverend I.O’s Balcony.

Even much of the smell has remained, a rusty old smell from the mattresses, stationeries, rug, and furniture.

I recommend the building to anyone in Abẹ́òkuta, especially the adjoining Museum. I hope to visit it again when I’m in town. I am already impressed by this attempt at keeping history alive through structures and other non-conventional means of keeping the names of our famous citizens in the memory of contemporary children.

A few more photos below. Here is a more comprehensive report of the launch.